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A New Multifunctional Additive for Antimicrobial Stabilisation

Karin M. Stoffels | Global Ingredients & Formulations Guide 2014

ABSTRACT: One of the most important challenges for formulators of cosmetic products is protection from microbial contamination that could have an impact on the health of consumers. The options for microbial stabilisation are strongly restricted by regulation, public discussion and marketing requirements. The demand for natural and sustainable cosmetics is growing in an environment of increased consumer desire to live healthier lifestyles and to respect nature. This includes mild and safe solutions to avoid microbial contamination.

The choice of preservatives according to the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 is limited. The list of preservatives acceptable to both marketing and consumers is even more restricted. Parabens, for example, are some of the most commonly used preservatives due to their excellent efficacy and low sensitizing potential. However, public discussion has caused some manufacturers to avoid using these materials in new formulations.

To meet these challenges, other soft concepts of antimicrobial stabilisation are required. Auxiliary formulation techniques like extreme pH values, low water activity and tamper-resistant packaging are not always applicable. The addition of multifunctional additives, providing antimicrobial properties as a secondary benefit to their primary functions, can be a smart solution.

The moisturiser and deodorant active sensiva® PA 30 is a novel, mild blend consisting of half natural, half nature-identical ingredients. Germ count reduction tests and challenge tests show that it can contribute to the microbial stabilisation of cosmetic products.